Friday, October 17, 2008

Boat basin

Lobster and caviar diner for 20, total food cost $800. How?
I didn't think it could be done.
However a billionaire's financial philosophy is probably significantly different to mine (money has only one purpose – spending). When I throw a dinner party I want nice things and it cost what it costs especially when celebrating a movie launch. My estimate of 2 to 3 thousand dollars for this top end dinner was balked at and I ended up with a budget of $1000 and stated that “I will do my best, with that budget” you cheapskate.
After my last stressful experience with this man I demanded lots of help and as much time as possible. Generously I had been given over 24hours notice to plan out a menu, so when I hit the upper west side market I possessed more intent than my usual indecisive style of letting the ingredients decide.
The produce section was uncooperative and quiet, with chanterelles that looked like I do after a three day bender. Persuasive bright fall veggies helped fill a trolley.
Final trolley, the search for the right olive oil ends as finally I am swayed by the shiny gold wrapping, now where did I leave that second trolley? I thought it was right here, quickly surveying the area of possible locations I decided it had been stolen! So I dashed about thinking the culprit couldn't have gotten far or might realize they got my milk. Alas the dairy trolley thief was too crafty and the cheese man had a case of deja vu. Back on track getting some sympathy from a fellow slave to the dollar at the check out, as I started to explain what this strange scruffy guy, looking very out of place with $250 of lobster was up to rushing off because I forgot the caviar. As always when you need to be fast it is impossible, excuse me I am before you… may I try the salmon, it is wild, how much is it, ok that tells me it is wild because I have been buying one that I thought was wild but now I found out it wasn’t..... lady all I needed was a tin of caviar and I was done. Is all of this conversation necessary. Now I have been a rude to someone hopefully I won’t need to try fight a crewmember or make someone cry.
One more stop, turned into two as the New York Times was popular on this day at this part of town. It was being too easy, this time I was going to have more than twice the time and half the heads to feed. Dessert was playing on my mind as I prepped the canapés, the only dessert ingredient I got was chocolate, for truffles and the request of oat choc chip cookies (anyone know the difference between a cookie and a biscuit). I always feel the need to try and finish strongly. The Lamb had to be good this time as the man had said not to bother with the lollipop chops he had previously loved, probably because they were fairly plain last time. I planned to skewer it with rosemary but could only get this hard ass looking and sounding lamb steak, so blended kiwifruit to soften it along with lots of strong flavors; garlic, ginger, horseradish, soy, sweet chili and lime. The man himself was up now, barking un-understandable orders to everyone somewhat simultaneously, very concerned about lobster being live until the last moment and that I was getting some help to put all the shopping away. Not much point as it was all getting prepped in the near future. Tuna tartar, salmon lemongrass skewers with butter ponzu and spinach feta filo parcels, wow I doing good now for the buckwheat blini mix.
Lunch! Can you make them a really nice lunch, something like salmon? Um… No. I didn't buy them salmon for lunch, not to mention I have plenty to do. Ok then what can you make for lunch? We settled on a salad.

Now I was starting to get lost, a problem I encounter frequently because of my style. Never really knowing how many of the dishes and much of the meal is going to end up. I just keep cooking, hope for the best and see what comes together.
After a bit of confusion I demanded that the three people I had organized were all still required. No cognac, of course not…. The best liquor available for the truffles turned out to be gran marnier.

The blanched asparagus decided to hang out with some roast cherry tomatoes and sherry vinegar. The blue potatoes were anti social in their current post boiled state, maybe peeling them might help them fit in better. The brussel sprouts are getting the most alternative treatment of the evening, blanched then fried in garlic butter and mingled with dried apricots and cranberries, toasted pinenuts, grapefruit and pomegranate. Multi colored cauliflower is ready to be grilled with three cheese sauce. The beets are slow roasting, a butternut squash has been roast with some smoked paprika, I think it will turn out as a tribute to fall veggies. The spinach has been awfully quiet and all the boring bell peppers managed was roast and peel.

As my help arrives I feel great relief, I don’t need to coax much more conversation or social behavior out of the produce. The pleasure of having to find jobs for others, peel this, chop that, takes over. Canapes go out super smoothly with the usual confusion involved in explaining what everything is….

that was beef? no rosemary skewered lamb

what is a buckwheat blini? A traditional way of serving caviar

spinach feta pillow? Filo. What is filo? Type of pastry

Luckily I resisted the urge to be a stereotypical chef and the only comment was a little less crème fresh on the blinis. Huge praise from this guy. Next the lobsters time to be a pain before they succumb to the steam oven. Steak hit the grill, pans are blazing as the buffet is readied for service. Exactly now I have to kill all power so the boat can leave the dock and the boss asks if I can serve in 5. As the boat circle the statue of liberty it all goes out smoothly to an empty main salon. The struggle to keep everything hot seems a little silly as the guest arrive ten minutes later.

A glimpse of the Brooklyn Bridge and big city lights offered pleasurable moments along with pleasing the man who paid the wages and leaving feeling like and deserving to get drunk.

Monday, October 6, 2008

Becoming a chef

My ego ballooned in Spain, I wrote my first menu, cooked for a famous writer, a self proclaimed king of capitalism, even a 80's rock star. People told me about how good my food was so often that my response wanted to be simply I know.
Certain the path to improvement was through pro actively seeking criticism. I hunted out feedback to a point where people couldn't just say they liked a meal. The poor customer had to tell me something negative. Once I pressed for what I could have done to improve your dining experience, and a guy put me in my place by telling me "you could have given me a foot massage while i ate".
I deserved that but also to get drunk after a busy service, discovering I could do 20 to 30 meals in 2 to 3 hours solo was proof I was the man. I am still too proud about this and brag whenever possible. A friend of the owner put a glowing review online about the restaurant and I became the famous Kiwi chef of the Lecrin valley.
By the time I turned up in Chamonix my ex boss had told me I was too good to be a chalet cook.
Full of arrogance I was able to get away with punching my boss and continuously working hung over or drunk . My menu's were better than the standard expected in most chalets, I mastered the high altitude souffle and never served a pasta meal while blatantly ignoring my budget and using a bottle of "cooking" bourbon a week. I often reminisce on having the time of my life in Chamonix , partying every night, snowboarding everyday and working just enough to survive.
The season ended and I hitch hiked to the boats with 200 euro in my pocket and ample confidence.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Why I hate English........

......food!
Ever wondered how that food come out so fast? Making pub food in London destroyed a part of the chef that is me. All the cooking was done in a fryer, microwave or this oven like thing called a Merrychef. The technique for steamed vegetables is remove bag from freezer and microwave, to cook the few fresh veges, onions and mushrooms treat as you do the french fries.
Now you too are trained as a English pub chef.
This guy I worked with was talented with a deep fryer, he needed no basket, spider or tongs, he could grab a piece of fish straight out of the non-specific animal fat with no more reaction than a shake of the hand.
Please England stop destroying food, some guidelines
- frozen vegetables are only to be used when absolutely necessary like when are crossing the Indian ocean and you are unable to get fresh produce.
- pans are used to fry onions and mushrooms
- scampi and chips is not food
- think fresh not frozen and good not quick