well the 4 star place actually got six. Still it is wanky and over the top, fun reading or rather criticizing the review when you know more than the reviewer.
http://www.timeout.com/newyork/articles/restaurants-bars/69236/corton
His lavender mustard foamy thing is awesome, his dishes so labour intensive it takes two chefs a day to prep one but cool if you can do it and boring if you have to do it 80 hours a week.
So here is a review, without eating at a restaurant.
Corton is trying to be a serious contender for the top fine dining restaurant in manhattan, without a chef with a comparable reputation to Thomas Keller it is going to be hard to compete with Per Se. Chef Paul Liebrandt has serious talent and potential as does the concept, in these difficult times the top end food and service is accompaned by reasonable prices. Everyone is making a fuss over the from the garden salad, just a pile of veges on a plate showing off many flavor combination and cooking techniques arranged artfully in a five stage plating process consisting of 20 or 30 seperate elements. For some it may seem over handled, others too beautiful to eat for me just over the top. The fois gras shows outstanding care and skill in its preperation and plating but the flavor falls short of the visual appeal. Scallops with their modern art look deserve gallery space and the dining room provides it, the flavors are fresh rich and clean, the tweezer skill required to arrange them is surgeon like. Green olive sponge starts you off with a delightful bite of cleverly ingenuitive microwave ability, the puffed buckwheat worked well with its oyster. As for the main show if you like the texture provided by sousvide cooking you are spoilt for choice. The finale is the star, caramel brioche with a touch of stilton and beatiful ice-cream and heaps of balancing flavors that took me to thailand without the heat.
Yeah I want to eat their but i dont think they take hodded rifraf.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
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